Guest Author - Teresa Greene

Sometimes a pattern will ask for certain construction techniques to achieve the particular look the pattern was designed for. How you sew the seams can have a dramatic impact on the finished look. For example, many corset patterns call for the use of flat fell seams to create a finished look for the corset where both the inside and outside of the garment appears the same. For this reason, flat fell seams are also often used for sportswear, menswear, uniforms, and reversible garments. Delicate designs using fragile fabrics make use of French seams. Even if your sewing skills are basic, it is easy to master either of these techniques. For a flat fell seam, follow the simple instructions below. Instructions for the French seam are given next.

Flat fell seams:

Begin by placing your fabric with the wrong sides together. Pin the fabric together along the seam line. Sew a 1/2 inch seam, pulling the pins out just before the presser foot runs over them (this will prevent the needle from hitting a pin and breaking in the middle of stitching the seam). When the entire seam has been sewn and all the pins are removed, first press the seam allowances open, then press them together again over to one side. Be sure the setting on your iron is appropriate for the type of fabric you are using so the heat will not damage it. Trim the bottom seam allowance to a 1/4 inch. Flip both seam allowances over to the other side and turn the longer seam allowance down over the trimmed side, pressing all the way. Flip both seam allowances back to the side they were originally pressed over to pin into place. Stitch through all thickness of fabric close to the folded edge of the seam allowance. Press the finished seam. Voila, a flat fell seam!

NOTE: If you are sewing period garments and wish to achieve an authentic look, follow these instructions, but use a hand running stitch for the straight seams, and an overcast stitch to enclose the smaller seam allowance. This technique, done by hand, will result in just one row of stitching showing on the outside of the garment.

French seams:

French seams use a similar technique, but have a slightly different look, as they are generally much narrower. French seams are used on lightweight, sheer fabrics that ravel easily to give a finished look to seams that may show through the sheerness of the fabric. French seams are also often used to sew the hood on hooded garments such as bathrobes, sweatshirts, and capes. Mastering a French seam is just as easy as mastering the flat fell seam. To sew a French seam, following these instructions:

Begin by placing your fabric with the wrong sides together. Pin the fabric together placing the pins perpendicular to the seam line along the full length of the seam. Sew a 1/4 inch seam, removing the pins as described for the flat fell seam. DO NOT press this seam open. Trim the seam to 1/8 of an inch, and press over to one side, being mindful of the iron setting as described above. Open the fabric and turn so that the right sides of the fabric are together, folding the fabric along the seam line. Press on this fold. Pin the fabric together, once again placing the pins perpendicular to the seam line. Sew a 3/8 inch seam. Open the fabric with the wrong sides facing up. Press the seam to one side. Now the garment has a neat seam on the right side, and an enclosed seam on the wrong side.