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Belding Bros. Silk Tatting Book Pt. 4



Belding Bros. ∓ Company
Carlson Currier


Abbreviations used: d s. double stitch; p, picot or purl; *, repeat from preceding *; r, ring; ch, chain; l p, long picot; c l, clover leaf.

To make like illustration, r 3 p separated by 3 ds ( 3 ds, p, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, p, 3 ds close), leave three-eighths inch of silk, repeat r, joining by first p to last p in preceding r. Repeat indefinitely.

Fig. 13 DOUBLE ROW OF RINGS. This may be used as an edge or as an insertion with the simple edge. Ring 3 p separated by 3 ds, turn, leave one-fourth inch silk, r joined by first p to last p of last r, turn, leave one-fourth inch thread, r joined
by 1st p to last p of 2nd r. Repeat from star indefinitely.

Fig. 14 EDGE MADE WITH TWO SILK THREADS. Ring 3 p separated by 3 ds. Take the spool silk as directed above and ch 4 ds, p, 4 ds. Drop spool silk, turn, and repeat r, joining as in simple edge.

Fig. 15 INSERTION TO MATCH FIG. 14. Make an edge like the last, then a 2nd row, joining each ring to a p of a r in the 1st

Fig. 16. CLOVER LEAF EDGE. * Ring 3 p separated by 3 ds, close; close up ring 3 ds, join to last p in 1st r, 3 ds. 3 p separated by 1 ds, 3 ds , p, 3 ds close; close up ring 3 ds, join to last p in 2d r, 2 p separated by 2 ds, 3 ds close. Chain 4 ds, 3 p separated by 2 ds, 4 ds, turn. Repeat from star.

Figs. 17, 18, 19. WAIST FRONT AND YOKE MATERIALS-C. C. Co. Pure Tatting Silk. Two shuttles are necessary. For convenience sake call one shuttle A and the other B. Join the two silk threads.

First round - With shuttle A r 1 ds, 12 l p separated by 2 ds, 1 ds close and tie the two silk threads together.
Second round - Put silk B round the left-hand fingers, holding it between thumb and fore finger. With shuttle A ch 2 ds, l p, 1 ds, p, 1 ds, l p, 2 ds. Fasten to first p below. Repeat 11 times.

Third round - Pass both silk threads up on the under side and fasten by slipping shuttle A through loop of silk B drawn through the last p of 12th scallop and also 1st p of 1st scallop of round previous. Put silk B round the fingers and with shuttle A ch 3 ds, p, 2 ds. Drop shuttle A and with shuttle B r 7 p separated by 1 ds, close. These picots should be graded in length, commencing short, increasing to 4th and decreasing again. Drop shuttle B, but keep silk B round the fingers and with shuttle A ch 2 ds, p, 3 ds. Join to 3d p of 1st scallop and 1st p of 2d scallop of previous round. Repeat 11 times, tie silks together and trim close.

With fine needle work around the edge of the wheel. The stitch required is made by putting needle behind the silk into picot, then throwing the silk from the needle to the left under the needle. When the needle is drawn through the loop thus made it ties a hard knot. Commence with the 2d p of any outer r, working into each p, and leaving silk enough between the p's to make a slight outward curve. After the last p of the r, simply slip the needle through the 2 short p's below, the silk crosses itself, tie into 1st p of next r, back into curved thread between the last 2 p's of previous ring, and then back into 2d p of 3d r, 3d p, and so on. Continue in this way around the wheel, which will now lie flat and show its beauty.

Make 46 wheels.

Fig. 18 Detail of 17/18

From some dark, stiff stuff, such as cambric or silk, cut a pattern, which need not be too exact, of a pointed dress front, hollowing out the neck to fit. Pin one wheel in the pointed end. Above it, not quite touching it, pin two with two outside rings adjoining each other but not quite touching. Pin three in 3d row, placing middle one in straight line above the first one in the point. Increase the number of wheels in each row by one until eight wheels stand in the row at the neck. Let each interior wheel be in a straight line with the wheel in second line below. Pin three wheels, then two, in two rows on each side the neck.

Make 62 simple rings of 1 ds, 12 l p separated by 2 ds, 1 ds, like the center of the General Directions whenever it seems too wheels, and pin a ring in the center of the vacant space between each two wheels.

Commencing, we will suppose, with the 2d row of 2 wheels, with needle and silk thread tie into upper edge of left-hand wheel lying nearest the right-hand wheel, cross to right hand wheel, back to left, and thus continue as long as the wheels are near enough to allow stitches of uniform length. Then follow down the edge of either wheel until the simple ring can be reached, going on around this, fastening it to the wheel you are on, and then to the bottom wheel and around to the other wheel, then upward, and so on until you have filled the whole space between the 3 wheels with stitches of as uniform length as possible. Thus work the 46 wheels into one solid piece of "all over". The stitch needs no extra fastening, but the thread can be cut anywhere, and a new piece can be joined on in the manner described in the short to be handy. Should the wheels at the neck made too irregular an edge, insert simple rings, large or small as required.

For a stock collar to go with this front, cut a pattern out of cambric to fit the neck, make 26 or 28 wheels, according to the size of the collar, with 12 or 13 rings to go between, pin them on the pattern in two rows and work together.

The round dress yoke illustrated in Fig. 19 may be made by following the directions given for the waist front. The wheels are worked in the same way, and the collar, when finished, shows a very effective piece of tatting.

End of Silk Tatting Book.
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Belding Bros. Silk Tatting Book Pt. 3
Belding Bros. Silk Tatting Book Pt. 2
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Content copyright © 2015 by Georgia Seitz. All rights reserved.
This content was written by Georgia Seitz. If you wish to use this content in any manner, you need written permission. Contact Georgia Seitz for details.


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