Guest Author - Norma Shephard

Hats have been out of style for such a long time —30 years or so—that the social imperatives and style considerations regarding this accessory have been all but forgotten by the general public. But any woman seeking to understand what type of hat can, and indeed, should be worn with mourning costume would do well to follow the example set by Janet, Rebbie, and La Toya Jackson at their brother Michael’s memorial service.

The Right Hat

Throughout the great age of millinery (1770 – 1970) when hats dominated a woman’s costume, it was well understood that in addition to flattering a woman’s face, a hat must always be appropriate to the occasion. This is especially true in regard to funeral observances when a mourner may feel a need to shield her face —at the very least her eyes—from onlookers.

Mourning Hats

Mourning hats serve a dual purpose. Symbolically, the mourning hat sends a signal to others that the wearer is grieving. For this reason it is usually black, and constructed from a material with a dull finish. This might be straw or a low sheen fabric in summer, and felt or wool if the unfortunate event occurs in winter. As with any millinery creation, the style must be age appropriate and in keeping with current fashion trends. Mourning hats are trimmed simply, if trimmed at all, and rely heavily on clean, flattering lines for their attractiveness.

For practical reasons, the mourning hat should allow for the face to be partially obscured. This can be achieved through careful shaping of the brim, or through the use of veiling. If the wearer is in deep mourning, as in the case of a widow, a bordered veil is entirely appropriate.

The Jackson Sisters Score a Hat Trick

Michael Jackson’s grieving sisters get top marks for the hats they wore to his Staples Centre memorial on July 7th. Not only were each of the hats flattering and entirely appropriate, they worked in concert with each other to present an image of uniformity with each of the women maintaining their individuality.

Each of the plain black hats were without sheen or embellishment, achieving drama through their simple lines. Janet’s chapeau —a variation on the beret—although brimless, was age appropriate, flattering to her face, and of a style she has successfully worn before. (An unexpected funeral is no time to experiment with fashion.) La Toya’s choice—a traditional wide-brim, which obscured her face and balanced her costume—
was perfect, as was Rebbie’s downward-sloping mushroom bonnet, which gave the impression of softness.

200 Years of Hats

At various time throughout the great age of millinery, mourning hats have achieved high fashion status. Widow weeds from the Victorian era as well as mourning hats of the Edwardian and Second World War periods can be seen in my book 1,000 Hats.