Guest Author - Norma Shephard

Michael Jackson's costume legacy

Pop music icon Michael Jackson died yesterday leaving the world to ponder his music, his bizarre physical transformations, his child molestation charges, and his fashion choices. There remains no doubt, however, that Jackson, a devotee of circus magnate P.T. Barnum, has earned a reputation over the last few decades as the king of showmanship— on and off the stage.

Off stage and in court, Jackson’s brass-buttoned jackets bedecked with military and police badges, provided the defendant with an air of authority that was anything but accidental, while his choices of slithery silk, nylon, and reptilian textiles suggested the appearance of smoothness and fragility.

On stage, the entertainer’s form fitting silhouette, outfitted in second-skin dance clothes served to focus audiences’ attention on his exquisitely choreographed routines. And on the television screen—that ubiquitous visual medium— Jackson’s costume selections played a part in catapulting the performer to music video megastar status.

It is unlikely that the fashion world will embrace the entire Michael Jackson imprint, but individual elements of his 1980s look – military inspired jackets, the classic fedora, white t-shirts, and loafers—will likely enjoy a resurgence in popularity, as will fashion details like all-over sequining, gold braiding, epaulettes, and military regalia.

It is the costuming team of Michael Bush and Dennis Tompkins that have provided Jackson with extravagant concert tour ensembles as well as much of his personal apparel for over 20 years. In 2005, they conceived and executed Michael’s courtroom ensembles working almost around the clock to not only design and produce the garments, but to make daily deliveries of the wardrobe pieces to Neverland Ranch, going so far as to dress Michael, and to photograph each item, in case the entertainer requested a duplicate of a piece that had been shipped to a museum.

Bush defends the famous pyjama bottoms ensemble, rejecting the standard “judicial pinstripe mentality,”while emphacizing that Jackson had been in the hopital that day. I guess traditional hospital garb—that fashion staple, the Johnny gown— will never catch on!

Bush and Tompkins told a Los Angeles newspaper that their mandate over two decades was always the same—to design costumes for Michael that were in keeping with current fashion trends and silhouettes, but to take them over the top. Working from a tailor’s mannequin, custom designed to reflect the pop singer’s exact measurements, the team would always begin by researching fashion magazines, said Bush who along with his partner consulted with Michael on each of his costume projects.

Hollywood Costume Designer Deborah Nadoolman Landis also designed for Michael Jackson, producing the famous broad-shouldered, short cut jacket for the 1982 Thriller music video. Michael Jackson had a way of making classic male garments like suits, vests, hats, loafers and belts appear chic and out-of-the-ordinary, inspiring impersonators and fans to emulate his style.

It’s difficult to predict the extent of Michael Jackson’s costume legacy. Will loafers with anti-gravity lifts become the rage? Will fans take to wearing a single sequined glove? Only time will tell.