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Costume and the War of 1812
Guest Author - Norma Shephard

On June 18th, 1812, the U.S. declared war on Great Britain, resulting in approximately 50 battles, skirmishes, raids, bombardments, artillery duels, and other military conflicts on Canadian soil. Almost immediately, government contract announcements and volunteer recruitment notices appeared in the newspapers of Upper and Lower Canada, alongside classified adds offering boots, great coats, military uniforms, and fabrics suitable for the tailoring of uniforms, as well as epaulettes and wings, and embroidered cuffs and collars.

To a great extent, troops in Canada relied upon shipments from Britain for their regulation dress, while American militia were often attired in uniforms left over from the American Revolution. From headdress to boot top, commanding officers of Canadian militia were charged with the responsibility of ensuring regulation dress. At times, this involved the confiscation and disposal of linen shirts in favor of regulation flannel (despite the enlisted men’s preference for the former), foraging for black felt caps to replace the white tropical shakos issued to troops transferred from the Caribbean, and holding soldiers financially responsible for alterations made to shirts purchased from “washerwomen” and not sewn to regulation. In addition, captains ensured that each man’s initials or identifying mark were printed on the back of his shirt (between the shoulders and under the frill) to prevent men from borrowing from each other in order to pass inspection.

The significance of costume as it relates to war is evidenced by the importance placed upon these inspection rituals, as well as the fact that a recruit’s first assignment is to be kitted out with an appropriate uniform before even acquiring arms. Similarly, a re-enactor’s first task is to outfit him/herself with reproduction period costume. For a number of reasons, costumers and hobbyists interested in the War of 1812 are sometimes left to their own devices when reproducing historically correct uniforms. There is little authenticated documentation, for example, regarding the clothing and equipment carried by the tiny unit known as Caldwell’s Rangers.

While civilian costume reflects social standing, military clothing signifies rank, establishes allegiance, and makes it difficult for deserters to go undetected. Uniforms provide psychological benefits as well. For the soldiers of Upper and Lower Canada, c.1812, regimental dress provided a tangible association with Great Britain —for whom they were fighting— and with the Prince Regent himself who took a great interest in fashion. During the war of 1812, in addition to identifying regimental affiliation, rank, and position (a musician’s uniform might be distinguished by a reversal of colors), troop clothing identified tasks and assignments i.e. “work shirts” issued to the troops were to be worn when performing duties around camp.

Uniforms and civilian costume from the War of 1812 are housed at a number of museums and historical sites on both sides of the border. I will report on this subject in more detail in future articles.



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Content copyright © 2009 by Norma Shephard . All rights reserved.
This content was written by Norma Shephard . If you wish to use this content in any manner, you need written permission. Contact BellaOnline Administration for details.

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