Sushi rice (sumeshi, literally “vinegared rice”) is the most important ingredient in good sushi. Originally, sushi was nothing more than a method of preserving fish by fermentation. Raw fish was cleaned and filleted, then packed tightly in layers of rice. The natural fermentation of the rice produced lactic acid that pickled the fish and kept it from spoiling. The rice was always discarded before the fish was eaten.

There are dozens of recipes for making sumeshi, but most adhere to two basic rules: using short-grain rice (long-grain won’t work because it’s not sticky enough), and washing the rice before cooking.

To make sushi rice, you’ll need a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, a wooden spatula, and a shallow pan.

1 1/4 cups short-grain sushi rice
Cold water
1/3 cup + 1 tbsp rice vinegar
2 1/4 tbs sugar
1 3/4 tsps salt
1 3/4 cups water
3 tbsp soy sauce

1. Place rice in large bowl and cover with cold water. Stir gently several times until water becomes cloudy. Drain rice in colander and repeat washing and draining process several times until water runs clear. After final rinse, let rice drain in colander for one hour.

2. Combine vinegar, sugar and salt in a small saucepan; set over medium heat and stir until sugar is dissolved. Immediately remove from heat; let stand until cool.

3. Combine drained rice and 1 3/4 cups water in a medium saucepan with fitted lid. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 15 minutes or until all water has been absorbed.

4. Remove saucepan from heat and let stand, covered, for 15 minutes. Do not lift lid.

5. Spoon rice into a shallow pan in an even layer. Drizzle with cooled vinegar mixture and white sesame seeds; toss gently with a dampened wooden spoon to blend. Continue tossing gently until rice cools. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside. Do not refrigerate.

6. Follow instructions for preparing and assembling sushi.